Most buffing can be done at the buffing lathe. The interior partsof a horn

must be polished by hand through ragging.To clean and polish

the spots which are hard to get at, use an old T-shirt ripped up intostrips

about 2" in width. Apply tripoli or other abrasive compound by placingyour

foot on one end of the rag and holding the other with your hand. Rub the

abrasive onto the rag. You can get little sets of buffing compounds atthe

hardware store inexpensively. Make sure it contains at least one stickof

Tripoli. Buffing compounds are wax based and spread like frozen butter.Use

this strip by snaking it through the hard to reach places on the horn.

Pulling it through until the spot is clean. Always scrape the excess solder

away from the braces and flanges before ragging so that you remove

any scratches caused by scraping. You can use a small stick with the

cloth andtripoli to concentrate on small areas which the rag won't get.

Chemical Cleaning-

There is a product here that is called CLR. It is available at most

home goods stores. It is used to clean coffee pots and copper utensils.

Surprisingly, this is the same solution used to

clean the lime from the inside of brass instruments.

It is a pickling solution which is very safe and does a good

job. If you can't find any like product I will send the manufacturers

address or figure out the formula. Ferree's has this available but itis

fairly expensive.

A good brass brush, available at a plumbers supply, will usually get

most of the grime out of the inside tubes. I use regular dish washing

detergent to clean all the horns which come into the shop. It removesgrease

good and leaves your hands silky smooth! Also, get some bottle brushes(I'm

sure you have plenty of these around the house). They work great sincethey

are soft and will not harm the inside of the tubes.

Muriatic acid is probably the main acid used for cleaning brass. It is

available at most hardware stores here. You should never leave brass in

Muriatic for too long since it will eat through it in no time at all.It does

remove oxidation and surface dirt. Older horns are often so impregnatedwith

oil and dirt that it can take several cleanings to get them to the point

where you can solder effectively. After you clean them, heat will bringmore

dirt out of the pours of the brass further complicating solder work. Ifyou

experience this, make sure the joint is really clean. I like to scrapeor

ligthly sand the areas which are to be soldered, being careful not toruin

the finish around the joint. You may also have to flush the spot withflux

several times to get the solder to flow. Trial and error are the bestteacher

with soldering.

Spot Plating-

If you want to silver plate the spots which are wearing out, youwill

need a 6-10 amp battery recharger. This should be easy with all the car

repairs you have to do! You will have to get your hands on some Silver

Cyanide. This is the medium for silver plating.Attach the negative lineto

the horn with a alligator clip. Attach a piece of copper to the positivewire

and wrap a piece of cheese cloth around this wire. Dip the postive wirewith

fabric into the silver cyanide. Plug in the battery recharger and wipethe

area, gently, with the solution. This will place a small amount of silveron

the spot if it is REALLY CLEAN. Use naptha to clean the spot or use acetone.

The best cleaning solution is Triclorethylene. This is a highly controlled

chemical here and only meant for industrial use. I try to use as littleas

possible since it is really nasty.

If you can't find theanswers here, drop us a line.

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